Friday, 26 October 2012

25 Things that have become normal


I am sitting in my apartment hearing the guards laughing and joking, the fruit lady bargaining her prices on the corner, and the constant honking of horns as the morning traffic starts to increase. The birds and insects are chirping and I can hear the generator being started for the Printing Press next door (power has just left us) …… it has all become a common soundtrack. So many other things have become normal to me, which would have seemed crazy 9 months ago and might seem strange to you so I have tried to spell some out…

Welcome to life in Africa!

25 things that have become totally normal
(Thanks to Bridget Lawrence for the idea!)

1. Filtering all water for drinking and brushing teeth
2. Watching lizards leaping away from my feet as I walk around
3. Greeting every passer by in Hausa
4. Changing my intonation when I speak to Nigerians to be better understood
5. Having someone else do my housework every week
6. Almost being knocked to my feet as I enter the orphanage by kids running towards me to give me hugs.
7. Living with other missionaries from all over the world
8. Men wearing lace and hot pink
9. Expecting the unexpected on the road
10. Having no running water when the pump breaks (frequently!)
11. Yelling in celebration when the electricity returns after hours or days without it!
12. Being called ‘Auntie’ all the time
13. Bleaching all my fresh fruit and vegetables
14. Counting money in 1000s
15. Having to avoid certain areas or town and stay on the compound on Friday afternoons in case of unrest due to the Muslim times of prayer
16. Wearing skirts and covered shirts wherever I go
17. Being in the minority and sticking out everywhere
18. Never accepting a first price, bartering for produce in the markets and feeling ripped of I paid more because I am white!
19. Wearing a head scarf to church
20. Receiving gorgeous hand written notes from the kids at Gyero
21. Dreaming of fresh milk
22. Eating and enjoying Nigerian food
23. Hearing the Muslim call to prayer every morning at 4am.
24. People using their arms out their car window to signal instead of their indicators
25. Queuing for over an our to fill my gas tank with petrol

Sunday, 21 October 2012

Fainting in an African operating room!


Well it has been another exciting week as I travelled again with ProHealth to Edo State this time for another medical outreach in a small township called Igobazuwa (say that 3x fast!).  It was a 13-hour bus trip down to Benin City because we had to take a round about route due to some epic flooding in the area. With only 2 toilet breaks on the way, I was more than ready when we pulled up to the hotel that evening at 9pm.  The project site was a good hour away from the hotel so each morning we would board the buses and have a fun time of laughter and getting to know each other as we drove to the village. This trip we added eye care and eye surgeries to the list of services we were providing (which included dental, pharmacy, laboratory, health promotion, consulting, surgical review and surgeries as well as post-operative care).

The days were slightly shorter than in Taraba, due to the increased security risk (armed robberies are common in Edo State) and the need to leave the site by 530pm at latest, but the work was as hot and intense as ever. I worked with another amazing group in theatre and tried my hand at being scrub nurse not just circulating nurse and also did some cannulation for the anaesthnitist. Was good to try my hand at a few new things.  I did have a way to go in terms of redeeming my reputation after a rather embarrassing incident on day two of the trip…….let me paint the picture.

I was gowned up in full sterile gown with scrubs underneath, shoes, socks, face mask, hair net, surgical gloves - the only part of my body showing was my eyes…and it was HOT. There was no airflow, the windows were closed, there was no fan, and I started to feel faint. Now I know the signs, and when I started having palpitations, blurred vision and weakness in my knees I knew it was more than something I could breath my way through, so I politely excused myself saying I needed to go and sit down…I made it to the small stool just outside the theatre and sat down. The next thing I remember I was being picked up by a huge Nigerian surgeon called Dr K, who had dropped what he was doing mid procedure, and has scooped me up and was carrying me outside to the post op ward! I was laid in a bed and people started stripping off the multiple layers as I started to realize what had happened. They continued to fuss over me for sometime, the younger doctors liking the opportunity to come to my rescue it seemed, but I assured them all it was just the heat. Talk about embarrassing, silly white girl can’t hack the heat! Anyway, despite trying to assure them it wasn’t hypoglycemia, I wasn’t afraid of blood and that I do naturally have a low blood pressure…they insisted I take it easy for the rest of the day and not scrub again that day. It was the running joke of the OR for the next 3 days, and it was lucky I saw the funny side.

I had my first Nigerian Football education this weekend. I made the decision that it was finally time to invest in learning a bit more about the English Football League since it’s such a massive deal here and everyone seems to have a team they support. Football and politics are the most highly discussed and debated topics in Nigeria and I decided that football was probably somewhat easier to understand at a basic level! I’ve watched soccor before and so know the basic rules but there was so much more to the rivellry, the purchasing of players and the history and competition between the clubs than I ever knew! I followed two Nigerian friends into a dark dingy smoky pub (but felt completely safe don’t worry!) and sat down, being watched by a lot of perplexed faces, and embraced the experience. My favorite part was the people watching, seeing how engrossed these men were and how animated they were when a goal was scored or a yellow card handed out.  I was thankful that Chelsea won, as my friend supports the team and his mood was quite dark at one point in the game when they were down on goals, I hate to think how depressed he would have been for the remainder of the day had they lost!

Fiona and I are now in full swing organizing a bridal shower for our Nigerian girlfriend who is getting married in 3 weeks. She will also have a ‘Send Forth’ a week before the wedding, which is like a big communal prayer and advice session in her honor, as a way to ‘send her forth’ from her church and home to be joined with her husband. The Send Forth is also fully catered and is sometimes as large as the actual reception. I’m beginning to have a real appreciation for just how much work goes into Nigerian weddings! As bridesmaids, we also had to go shoe shopping for silver heels the other day. I found some outrageously high ones, so I will look the part indeed, but I made sure I’d be able to walk and dance, and comfort during the day was the only requirement from the bride, bless her heart.

Thursday, 27 September 2012

ProHealth Outreach, Malaria and no electricity!


 I got back last week from a 6 day medical and surgical outreach with an organisation called ProHealth. I hoped on a bus in Jos and was driven 8 hours South East to Taraba State, to a small village called Takum. We, 60 Nigerian doctors, surgeons, dentists, anaesthetists, nurses, lab techs, pharmacists and health promoters spent the next 5 days giving free health care, medications, advice and surgery to the locals.  I was placed on the surgical team to help out in any way I could and in the end learnt how to run an African operating theatre!
On day 1 the ‘OR’ team as we were called, had to set up the sterile theatres. ProHealth has a huge orange bus that carries all the equipment needed, so after some furious cleaning and draping of walls, by 12pm on the first day we were underway with the first surgery. The surgeries performed by the 3 surgeons included hernia and hydrocele repairs, appendectomies, lipoma and ovarian fibroid removals, and the odd circumcision and tumour excision. The surgeons were such machines; they just kept going and going, we ended up doing 115 surgeries in 4 days! It was hard work and after being out of the habit of shift work and standing for long amounts of time, 10 hours on my feet had me wilting in the corner. But the team I had the pleasure of working with made up for the fatigue with their joking, good-natured banter, stories and songs throughout the day.  
The rest of the team split into specialties and set up clinics in a health centre attached to the church we were partnering with. By day 6 I didn’t want to go home! I had met so many amazing people and formed such close friendships in such a short amount of time; I didn’t want to go back to reality.  I think having a shared passion for helping people through healthcare and having the same heart for using their skills for
God, really knit us all together.
One thing that was a bit weird was that I was the only white girl on the trip, and even though I am used to people staring and wanting to get my number, even on the trip I had people wanting to snap pictures with me on their blackberry phones (yes even educated doctors) some of which I had hardly spoken to on the outreach. It was harmless, and I obliged them, I guess, if that's what's going to give them credibility with their friends back home then I’m happy to help!

One of the low lights of the last few weeks has been not having electricity for days at a time. We’ve been without for 2-3 days sometimes. Usually it comes and goes, but lately there’s been trouble with a transformer at the power plant and we’ve had nothing. It doesn’t affect other compounds as much as Challenge because they all have generators, but because we usually have such a great supply, and battery operated lights (which die if not recharged in 24 hours); there hadn’t been a need. This may have to change! Everything I owned with a battery died on me. My phone, laptop, 
Ipod, my fridge/freezer defrosted and then water ran out too as our water pump needs electricity to pump! BUT one good thing came out of it, it was a real wake up call for me about how dependent I've become on technology as a whole, for communication, but for leisure time too. I felt totally out of touch with the world during those few days when I couldn’t email, couldn’t Facebook, couldn’t Google…. it was a challenge to find other things to do. The girls and I played board games because we had no light and no way to watch a movie and I read a lot more of my book than usual. Having to eat and prepare a mal by candlelight was a lot less romantic as it may sound. I’m sure it would be a lot more romantic when it' done by choice and not necessity!

Another low light was the fact that I've been ill with presumed malaria for over a week. It started as a bit of a queasy, gurgly, crampy stomach (which I put down to eating Nigerian food all week on outreach) which is what the start of Giardia feels like from much experience, so I started taking medication for that, but by day four I had a headache, no appetite, nausea and no energy, all I could do for 3 days straight was sleep and feel miserable for myself! For those of you that no me well, I’m not good at resting, so to not physically be able to do anything except sleep was such a frustrating condition. The intense lethargy is very characteristic of malaria on prophylaxis I was informed by the missionary doctor so started on Malaria medications. I’m feeling stronger every day now and am starting to venture out. My big outing today was sitting in line at the petrol station for gas for 2 hours. At least I had time to spare!

I had another dilemma last Monday at the prison. There was a young girl there who had been picked up for being out on the streets at 2am (not much other than prostitution that keeps girls out that late here in Nigeria). She approached me quietly after the bible study and told me her bail was 5000N ($30NZD) and could I get her out. Her trial is set for 1st Nov. I took her details and then on my way out of the women’s compound one of the prison guards told me I should leave her in the prison for the next 6 weeks until her court date because it may be her only chance to hear the word of God and for God to work on her so she doesn't go back to her old way of life. Since then I've prayed a lot about it and I feel that they're probably right. It just feels so wrong that IF I can do something about it, then I should. But I guess I have had to remind myself that I’m not there to bring reform to the Nigerian Justice system, it's not my responsibility to get everyone out, I'm there to share God with the ladies and encourage them in their faith. It is my prayer that come the 1st of November this young girl may be at the point of wanting to leave her old life at the hotel and come to Grace Gardens (our home
for ex-prostitutes) and start afresh.

Thursday, 6 September 2012

Fighting for justice and baking lessons


“… "Speak up for those who cannot speak for themselves, for the rights of all who are destitute. Speak up and judge fairly; defend the rights of the poor and needy." Proverbs 31:8-9.

"....may the groan of the prisoners come before you: by the strength of your arm preserve those condemned to die.” Psalm 79:1

Being able to be involved in fighting on behalf of people for their freedom was not something I anticipated doing in Nigeria, but has been one of the most rewarding and satisfying endeavors.  As most of you know, I have been leading a bible study in the women’s prison. This has allowed me to get to know the women and hear their stories. Over the months I have been visiting the prison and my work with ASPIR (Advocacy for the Support of Prisoners and Indigents Rights), I have heard so many stories of injustice that it breaks my heart. I have come to learn that the Nigerian justice system sentences people before trials and then again after if they are found guilty at trial. The sentence is terminated if found not guilty, but this happens for those ’lucky’ enough to ever be tried at all.

Prisoners are refused bail and kept behind bas for years without trial.  70% of prison inmates in Nigeria are awaiting trials, while 30% comprise those under trail and those already convicted. I have heard and read testimonies of those that have been detained and waited 9 years for a trial! Most accused will wait between 1 and 5 years for a trial date, whilst being treated as guilty. I have seen most of the suspects in the prison isolated, unable to contact family and friends and with few, if any visitors who remember them. In talking to a lawyer friend who works closely with the prison system, she expressed her opinion that in Nigeria, incarceration worsens the condition of prisoners instead of reforming them. She also shared the truth that most inmates awaiting trial did not commit the offences that they are accused of; they are mere suspects.  

Bearing all this in mind, when I heard the full story of one of the newer ladies last Monday, I decided to try and do something about it. Chindu is a mother of 3, recently widowed, and 3 months pregnant. She was accused of concealing stolen goods and sentenced to 2 years in prison or a fee of 10,000N (about $75 NZD).  In talking to her, she explained that she was given some curlers to use in her small hair salon, and was not aware they were in fact stolen. 2 years seemed like a long time away from her children for such a petty crime, even if she had committed it!

I made contact with a lawyer that another missionary had used previously to help in the process of paying the fee to free prisoners and she did some investigating, found the court she was convicted in and verified the validity of Chindu’s story and the facilitated the money transfer on my behalf. I saw her one last time before her release and even though I’d asked for things to be kept anonymous, she knew I was responsible and despite the language barrier I could tell she was grateful beyond expression.

On a very different note, Fiona and I hosted a birthday party for a Nigerian girlfriend of ours last Friday. She had never had a party before, so it was a great thing to be able to do for her. We ended up having over 50 Nigerians attend! Fiona and I along with 2 Nigerian girls spent the whole of Friday cooking and decorating, which was an exhausting job but well worth the effort. We would have been lost without the Nigerians’ as I’ve never had to cater for 50 before! Learnt a lot about Nigerian culture over the evening as well. In the West when we host ‘parties’ or gatherings in our homes, people who attend will stand around, mingle, meet new people, maybe dance a bit to the music that is playing in the background,  and generally just BE, but Nigerians expect to be entertained! They expect the party to have a programme, an MC, and a games master in charge of the evening.

We were busy playing games, had been broken up into teams and were planning songs and dances to perform for the birthday girl, but I was getting hungry. It was about 8pm and I was a bot concerned the food would be getting cold so I quietly suggested we eat (we'd prepared a full Nigerian meal for guests) but was kindly told that if we served the food, people would then leave! Sure enough, after we'd 
played games for  an hour or so and the men started demanding food we ate and by 9pm people were saying goodbye. Part of this of course is that the public aren't allowed out on the streets late at night for security reasons but it was just so bizarre to me because 9pm is when parties really get started back home!

Lamella and Nuhu dancing for rapping for Blessing 


We also had a cooking competition at our compound after church on Sunday. We had teams of about 5-6 people and split into 3 groups: mains, salads and baking. I was in charge of baking team and I had Nigerian girls in my team that had obviously never baked before (only very wealthy Nigerians own ovens) and didn't quite grasp the concept of following a recipe! They all make things by touch, taste and instinct, from having seen their mothers do it hundreds of times. They kept praising my ability and were in wonder of how I knew how to make cookies and brownies, I kept telling them all I was doing was reading from a book! After we'd iced the cookies, the girls then started asking me about how to make wedding cake icing…..I had to tell them that I actually had no idea and my baking repertoire really was limited to cakes, muffins, biscuits and slices! They have no scheduled me for baking lessons! More fun times ahead.

The Baking Team: Winners of the day!