Wednesday, 15 February 2012

The Market place, adventures with food and NEPA!


Last Sunday afternoon after church, George (our resident tour guide in Jos) took a car load of us from Challenge out to some amazing rock formations about 15mins out of town. He saw them from the road years ago and found a way to access them by foot. He named one 'golf ball' rock because it is the most amazing spherical rock perched precariously on top of another with seemingly no way of being held in place. I climbed up and pushed it, but alas even my brute strength was not going to dislodge it! I pray that no one will be standing underneath when the erosion process finally has it's way. The landscape in general at the moment is very barren and sparse. The long-termers have told me how beautiful the Plateau is over the rainy season; everything just comes to life and is green and lush with streams and waterfalls to visit in the weekends. It seems like such an impossibility at present when the earth is so parched that I'm sure it would need months of solid rain to produce something living. But then that's Africa for you, a continent of extremes.

It's the dry/cool season at the moment and the Harmattan winds are blowing dust around the city so it's very hazy and everything in my apartment gets covered in a fine dust, I don't think I'm going to bother trying to fight the loosing battle of keeping my floors clean just now, especially since every single window in my apartment is open (with bars and netting over them) and stays that way the whole day! I'm a little concerned because it's very hot here for me (it's 36 degrees today), but the other missionaries keep commenting about how cool the weather has been! Hmmm, hope I acclimatise quickly! Evenings are really nice at the moment though, I went to a missionary families house for dinner last night and we (about 30 people in total) sat outside till 9am (me getting eaten alive by Mozzies - yes I had insect repellant on - I have delicious blood apparently!). One good thing is that I'l loving how fast everything dries here!

I had my cultural orientation to the market place and the center of town the other day. Now I can understand how friends who have travelled and spent time in developing nations have commented that it can take a whole day to go shopping and to buy food! It was definitely sensory overload. The noise, the smells, the heat, the lack of personal space, the need to greet people everywhere you went and politely decline the offers to buy venders wares....after a few hours I was exhausted!
My Nigerian tour guide, a lovely lady named Kauna from SIM office, who has spent some time in the US so understands the Western ways of doing and being, first took me to the Baturi (white person) market. This market has things like strawberries, apples, broccoli and cauliflower, things not indigenous to Nigeria. Our next stop was to buy fabric for me to get some Nigerian wrapper skirts made from. It's highly important to do this, as it shows to the Nigerians that you're willing to learn and embrace their culture. We entered a narrow alleyway full of cramped stores wall to wall with yards of bright coloured fabric, I chose a pink and green patterned number....photos will follow if I ever get good internet speed!

I got a sim card for my phone so I can stay in touch with people here and receive security alerts when need be. I had to get it registered which was a bit intimidating when they not only wanted a photo but my thumb and index fingerprints of both hands for their system!
Next stop was the local supermarket most of the missionaries use. I was surprised by how many things were available, lots of american brands particularly, but I saw vegemite, maggi stock, cadbury chocolate and even white chocolate malteasers! Lots of imitation products of overseas brands such as 'Skiipy' peanut butter instead of Skippy and things I'll have to slowly discover how to buy Nigerian, like the best tasting milk powder, where to buy fresh yoghurt (Nigerian have a sweet liquid drink they call yoghurt...nice but not on muesli or fruit) and which meats to avoid and which are safe to buy. I then got some Nigerian vegetables from the street venders: carrots, lettuce, tomatoes, red onions, capsicums and cucumber. It was so cheap, for example all of that would have cost me under $5 NZD.

After lugging all my produce and fabric home because none of the taxi's would pick us up due to the traffic around Challenge compound (a taxi costs 50 Naira for most destinations; NZ 35 cents), I got home and attempted to pre-prepare some of my food. Because our western stomaches aren't accustomed to the Nigeria water supply (who knows what kind of parasites could be lurking), we not only filter our water but bleach the food we want to eat raw. This doesn't include food you can peel such as bananas, mangos, oranges and papayas, but things like strawberries, lettuce, tomatoes etc. must get soaked in a bleach called Milton for 7-10mins before it's safe to eat. Food preparation here therefore takes a lot more time and thought. I even have to use bottled/filtered water while brushing my teeth! I try to hold the bottle in my left hand the whole time so I don't go for the tap with my spare hand as it is still habit to do, I've had a few near misses and I'm positive I've swallowed shower water, but I'm not dead yet so that's good!

Well I've been here a week now and we have several power cuts a day. Apparently the electricity (or NEPA as it's referred to here, stands for Nigerian Electrical Power Association) has improved in my district in recent months because one of the Governors' has moved in down the road and also because there are several big banks in the same region that obviously can't afford to be without power too long. My colleague Kelly said they often go without power for days in her compound and once went for 2 weeks without any power. We're very blessed at Challenge because we have had a battery system installed. It's very expensive to run but it's such an amazing relief to have light when there's no NEPA simply by flicking a different switch. I did wonder when I first arrived why there were two light switches for every light in my apartment. One of the hard things about having no NEPA is that there is no way to keep things cool or frozen. As I don't have a huge amount in my freezer, I've frozen water bottles so that when the power is off, what I have in there will stay frozen for around 40-50 hours. The key is just to open the fridge as infrequently as possible. It's been so crazy realising how much we take for granted in our developed country. Speaking for myself I definitely felt quite enraged and hard done by if for some reason the power was out at home, wether because of bad weather or servicing of the wires, but here it's just an awesome privilege to have continuous NEPA the whole day! I did my first load of washing the other night and the power went out mid cycle, typical! Thankfully it came on again a few hours later so my clothes weren't soaking for too long. That's all for now, I'm trying my hardest to keep each blog a readable length!

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